Scotland

To really experience life, everyone ought to spend at least one Hogmanay in Edinburgh. Nowadays, London and other British cities, as well as those in mainland Europe, make much more of an effort to ‘see in’ the New Year but, ask anyone who has been there, and they will tell you that there’s nowhere else to compare with Scotland. And there’s nowhere in Scotland to compare with Edinburgh.

Those of us who have seen Edinburgh celebrations on the BBC at New Year might dismissively think of them as kilted middle-aged men singing ‘Donald where’s your troosers’ and some school children doing country dancing before the piper at midnight triggers off fireworks over Edinburgh Castle but it’s much, much more than that. In a country famous for its parties, Hogmanay is just about the biggest of them all.

To begin with, Hogmanay is not just synonymous with New Year’s Eve – that’s only part of the celebrations. Although the origins of the Hogmanay Festival – even the word itself – have caused countless debates over the years, we can be sure that its roots go as far back as the Viking Yules Festival and the Gaelic celebration of Samhain. Although driven underground during the Protestant Reformation, Hogmanay began to re-emerge towards the end of the 17th Century and it has gradually evolved into the three, sometimes four, day event of modern times.

Hogmanay in Edinburgh begins with a torchlight procession a few days before New Year, which travels from the Royal Mile to Calton Hill. There will be massed pipes and drums, performers and fire sculptures and then a firework display – just to get people warmed up for the forthcoming festivities.

There will be other events organised in the run up to the last day of the year. These will include such happenings as the Family Hoog – an authentic traditional Scottish ceilidh, with a contemporary edge. This is usually held at the famous George Street Assembly Rooms. In recent times, there has also been a dance event at the Grassmarket in the Old Town, with three stages featuring both traditional and modern dance and attracting upwards of 10,000 visitors.

It is on December 31st, New Year’s Eve, that the Hogmanay festivities reach their peak, however. The main feature is Edinburgh’s iconic Street party – a 4 stage extravaganza of live music that always includes some well-known performers. The climax of this is the firework display over Edinburgh Castle – a truly spectacular backdrop.

Also taking place this evening will be a concert in Princes Street Gardens and the Waverley Stage, from about 9 pm until 1 in the morning, a ceilidh and, at the Assembly Rooms, from 7.30 pm all the way through until about 2.15 am 3 stages of live music in ‘The Hoog’.

Meanwhile, over at the impressive St Giles Cathedral in the High Street, there is always a delightful Candlelit Concert, with live music of a very different nature.

It is no wonder, with so much on offer, that people from all over descend on Edinburgh at Hogmanay. The really hardy will be up first thing the next morning – or perhaps not go to bed at all– and wander down to Queensferry to watch, or even perhaps participate in, the fancy dress event now known as The Loony Dook – which consists of the aforementioned ‘loonies’ throwing themselves in the presumably nearly freezing waters of the River Forth.

Edinburgh is, of course, easily accessible both from within Britain and outside. The International Airport offers direct flights to many UK, European and International destinations – places such as Amsterdam, Paris, Munich, Zurich and New York. Furthermore, Glasgow International is only an hour’s drive away from the city. Rail links through to the major cities of England are also fast and frequent.

Once you’re in Edinburgh, there are free buses provided for people going back to hotels or houses after the events have finished.

Scotland’s capital city is geared up for tourists at all times of the year with a wide range of hotels, at many different prices, as well as hostels, guest houses and self-catering accommodation. It is common for many of these establishments to offer special Hogmanay packages, which will include tickets for certain events, so these can represent very good value. Because so many people visit at this time of the year, however, it is advisable to reserve your accommodation as early as possible.

Hogmanay in Edinburgh has its own website which will give details of all the events and how to reserve tickets for them.

A Highland Games – often referred to as a Gathering – is an essential part of what makes Scotland unique. Throughout the spring and summer – and, indeed, well into the autumn – you will find Highland Games , ranging from small, local events right up to large international festivals, throughout the length and breadth of the country. They represent a way of celebrating vital aspects of the Scottish cultural heritage to such an extent that, to many people, the images of caber tossing, bagpipe playing and the swirling kilts are as essential to Scotland as Edinburgh Castle, golf and deep-fried Mars Bars.

Highland Games reputedly began in the 11th century when Malcolm III was said to have organised a race to the top of Craig Choinnich to find the most suitable runner to act as his messenger. Whether true or not, the site of this race, near Braemar in the heart of the Cairngorms, is still an important Highland Games venue 10 centuries on.

The English occupiers of Scotland, determined to prevent rebellions, stopped the Scots from carrying weapons or training for war. Consequently, the Scottish natives developed the Games as a clandestine means of staying prepared to overthrow their oppressors. The modern games, though, were very much a Victorian innovation, for far more social reasons.

Part of the spectacle of a Highland Gathering are the traditional gladitorial feats of strength such as Stone Putting, Scotch Hammer Throwing, Caber Tossing, Weight Throwing and Throwing the Weight over the Bar. Some Games also include Sheaf Tossing, although it is often thought to be an English interloper. There’s also something quite breathtaking about a Highland Tug o’War battle. You’ll also see more traditional athletic races, often of a very high standard, and hill races to commemorate that very first run up Craig Choinnich.

Equally as important, however, are the Pipe Band competitions – as well as sometimes competitions for solo pipers – and Highland dancing events. Different Gatherings will have their own favourite other events so it’s not uncommon to find wrestling, cycling, Drum Major competitions and even five-a-side football on the timetables.

There are far too many Highland Games Gatherings to be able to mention them all here but well-known ones include those at the enchanting Blair Castle in Blair Atholl, Perthshire, every may; Strathmore Games, at Glamis Castle, the second Sunday in June; the Inverness Games in July; and the Highlander games at the famous Scone Palace, Perth in July.

The two most celebrated Gatherings, though, are probably Cowal and Braemar.

The Cowal Highland Gathering, at the end of August, is Scotland’s best attended Highland Games, attracting about 20,000 spectators each year to the town of Dunoon– as well as 3,500 participants from all over the world.

The Braemar Highland Gathering was formally constituted in 1816 and Queen Victoria, who first attended in 1848, honoured the meeting with the Royal title in 1866. In recent years it has been customary for the Queen and other members of the Royal Family to visit the Braemar Games whilst holidaying at nearby Balmoral Castle. Held on the first Saturday in September, the Braemar Games are the grandest of all the Gatherings, whilst still managing to stay firmly rooted in their area and keep their community feel.

Almost every major town and island will have its own Highland Games during the year, combining the strength and power of the ‘heavy’ events with the colour and passion of the pipe bands and the elegance of the dancing. Put all this against the backdrop provided by spectacular Scottish scenery and you’ll understand why Sottish Highland Games have an appeal way beyond the country’s borders.

For three weeks in August every summer, the Edinburgh Military Tattoo becomes, once again, the most spectacular show of its kind anywhere in the world. For many of us, it would seem that the Edinburgh Tattoo has been around for as long as the historic castle where it takes place. However, in reality, the first Tattoo was not held until as comparatively recently as 1950. It did, though, quickly gain itself a place in the great traditions of England – ranking alongside the Trooping of the Colour as a great military spectacle of pomp and circumstance.

Attracting a total audience of 217,000 each summer – and with 100 million television viewers – the Tattoo is the largest outdoor event in Edinburgh and many visitors like to go there when they attend some of the other summer festivals in Scotland’s capital city. The visitors to the Tattoo break more or less neatly into thirds – one third Scottish, one third from the rest of the United Kingdom and the remainder being from overseas. In addition to the performance itself, there is an added attraction, The Spirit of the Tattoo, at the top of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, which attracts more than 100,000 visitors a year.

The Tattoo takes place every night of the week from Monday to Friday with two shows on Saturdays but none on Sundays. In the impressive surroundings of Edinburgh Castle Esplanade – and with rows of temporary seating perched terrifyingly high above the cliff face that is, in fact, an extinct volcano – the Tattoo is a noisy, colourful, awe-inspiring collection of displays.

One of the main attractions of the show has always been the pipe bands from both Scottish and Commonwealth regiments. They are joined by other Military marching bands such as those of the Royal Marines and bands from overseas. In total, over 40 countries have been represented by bands and artists at the Tattoo; the first visitors being the Band of the Royal Netherlands Grenadiers in 1952.

As well as music and marching, however, spectators are thrilled by some of the displays that take place in the arena. Ranging from motorcycle and dog display teams, re-enactments of battles and, of course, the boy climbing precariously to the very top of the ‘Crow’s Nest’, the whole show is a feast of varied activities and entertainment.

The emotional climax of the evening is always the lone piper, silhouetted against the sky as he stands on the castle battlements playing his haunting lament. After witnessing more than 1,000 performers combining on the Esplanade below, this is a poignant, moving moment. Touchingly, the first such piper, Pipe Major George Stoddart, who played in every single performance for the first 11 years of the Tattoo, was succeeded by his son, Major Gavin Stoddart.

Tickets for the Edinburgh Military Tattoo are generally available from the December of the year preceding the event. Details of how to apply by post, telephone, in person or via the internet appear on the official website.

Edinburgh Castle, of course, does present access difficulties for people with disabilities but the web site has details of how to reserve places for wheelchairs at ground level at the foot of the North Stand and also how to obtain vehicle passes to avoid getting the chair up the steep cobbled hill. Notice, though, that no vehicle passes are issued for Saturday performances.

Summer in Edinburgh is festival time and, consequently, there is enormous demand for accommodation. It is best to book as early as you can – even camp sites can be fully booked. Also, it is perfectly feasible to find good accommodation outside of the city. At festival time the transport links are excellent – Glasgow, for example, is easily reached by train in less than an hour – so many visitors ‘commute’ into the city.

The Edinburgh tattoo remains a dramatic, eye-catching military celebration and, on a summer’s evening in Edinburgh, provides an unforgettable experience.

The largest festival anywhere in the world, the Edinburgh Fringe Festival just seems to go from strength to strength. Famous around the globe for the quality of its street theatre and comedy, ‘The Fringe’ now boasts more than 250 venues, more than 2,000 separate shows, and more than 31,000 different performances during its run in August.

The Fringe began at the same time as the official Edinburgh International Festival – 1947 – when several theatre groups arrived in Edinburgh to perform, even though they had not been invited. This became such a regular occurrence that, in 1958, the Festival Fringe Society was established to co-ordinate the growing number of activities. Now, as then, simply anybody can apply to perform at the Fringe – this is a completely open festival so, each summer, festival-goers can see some of the most famous names in contemporary entertainment perform just a street away from groups from schools, colleges and overseas.

There is an Official Fringe Programme published at the beginning of June each summer and this contains all the details of every show but you will also find daily programmes of events – in addition to the hundreds of people giving out ‘flyers’ everywhere you go. There is really no excuse for missing out on anything! Full details of the programme and availability of tickets can be found at on the Fringe Festival Website.

The entertainment ranges from theatre, musicals, comedy, dance, children’s theatre, exhibitions and staggeringly varied street entertainment – I vividly recall seeing a very young Eddie Izzard performing an hilarious ‘escape artist’ routine in front of the Scottish Portrait Gallery many years ago. The Perrier Comedy Awards – now known as the if.comeddies, awarded at the Fringe each year, have become one some of the most prestigious prizes for contemporary comedians. Between 1990 and 1993, for example, Sean Hughes, Frank Skinner, Steve Coogan and Lee Evans took the main awards – with others such as Jack Dee, Eddie Izzard, Lily Savage, Jo Brand, Mark Thomas, Harry Hill, Phil Kay and Greg Proops also being nominated. It is little wonder, then, that now over 1.5 million people come to the Fringe annually – many of them seeming able to squeeze an inordinate number of events into every single day they attend – and all searching for the next big star who has come to the festival to be discovered.

One recent development, which has been enthusiastically received, has been an increase in the number of Fringe shows that have free admittance; now around the 400 mark. Admission prices at the other shows vary considerably. With the Box Office opening in June, the major venues, such as the Assembly Rooms, Pleasance and the Gilded Balloon tend to sell out very quickly so tickets for these need to be booked in advance. One of the great joys, though, is to be able to stumble across something in a church hall somewhere that is absolutely original and groundbreaking.

With so many people attending the Fringe, and the other festivals in the city during August, the population of Edinburgh doubles in size – and this puts a premium on accommodation of all types. You do need to book well in advance – even some of the camp sites can be fully booked. However, transport links with towns outside the city centre are excellent – even Glasgow is less than an hour on the train – so it is possible to find suitable places outside Edinburgh at perhaps a more reasonable price.

The Edinburgh Fringe is not simply the Chelsea ‘set’ migrating to Scotland for a few weeks in August. It is a cosmopolitan experience with performers and spectators from all over, meeting up in one of the world’s most beautiful and friendly cities.

It really is unique – if a little exhausting!

The Edinburgh International Festival is one of the world’s most prestigious arts’ events in one of the world’s most beautiful cities. Held over three weeks from the middle of August to the beginning of September, the world’s foremost artistic performers come to Edinburgh to join in this staggeringly successful season of events.

The Edinburgh International Festival was initiated just after the Second World War, in 1947, in order to inspire the people of Scotland and help them to rebuild their artistic lives and, during its flourishing existence, has only had ten directors. They have succeeded in making Edinburgh the cultural centre of the world during August – attracting performers and visitors who come, secure in the knowledge that, above all else, Edinburgh represents quality in every aspect. The Festival is fully committed to presenting its audiences a wide selection of world class artistic offerings to the widest possible audiences. There is additionally a determination to present both international and Scottish works and to continue to encourage new work, which is often specifically commissioned for the Festival.

The Festival occupies 6 major theatres and concert halls- The Edinburgh Festival Theatre, King’s Theatre, Royal Lyceum Theatre, Edinburgh Playhouse, Queen’s Hall and Usher Hall – in addition to several smaller venues such as The Hub, at the top of the Royal Mile, which is also the Festival’s main Box Office, and Greyfriars Kirk. Classical music, dance, opera, theatre and the visual arts all share equal billing and all attract capacity audiences for the entire Festival period.

Tickets go on sale at the beginning of April each year and can be obtained on the official International Festival website. They can also be booked directly by telephoning The Hub at 0131 4732000. There are Facebook and Twitter pages where much valuable information, and gossip, can be found.

Amazingly, though, Edinburgh at this time does not restrict itself to the International Festival. Scotland’s capital becomes a veritable Festival of Festivals, with several other events of almost the same magnitude and prestige taking place simultaneously.

Most famous amongst these are the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, which developed from the International Festival itself and is now an enormous event in its own right, and the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, which is held nightly, except for Sundays, on the castle Esplanade. These two festivals have become an integral part of the Edinburgh festival summer.

And as if all this wasn’t enough, the largest international literary event, the Edinburgh International Book Festival, also promotes more than 800 gatherings during its August season. Taking over the beautiful Charlotte Square Gardens and transforming them into a tented village, all of the events are held in this one location. There are workshops, discussions, signings, lectures and much more – for children as much as for adults. An estimated quarter of a million visitors attend this Book Festival.

As Edinburgh is second only to London for the number of art galleries, it is no surprise that August also sees the annual Edinburgh Art Festival.

It goes without saying that if you want to visit Edinburgh during Festival season – and there really is something for every possible taste – then accommodation and tickets need to be booked as early as possible. There are some excellent camp sites around the city and many people stay outside Edinburgh and travel in – the whole transport system is geared towards ferrying people about at this time so it presents few problems.

Edinburgh is a spectacularly beautiful city at any time of the year. At the time of the Edinburgh Festival, however, it is probably the most vibrant, exciting city in the world.

Every year, hundreds of thousands of people come ‘north of the border’ just to experience some of the amazing festivals in Scotland. Hogmanay celebrations, the most famous Arts’ festival in the world and incredible competitions involving ancient sports – all this and much, much more draw people to this hospitable and strikingly dramatic country.

Scotland is a country of spectacular coastlines, imposing mountain scenery and, in Glasgow and Edinburgh, two of Europe’s most impressive cities. In addition, Scottish festivals have an atmosphere all of their own, whether they are the grand city spectaculars or those in the distinctive regional towns tucked away in the glorious countryside.

Two particular festivals that the Scottish have developed are both held early on in the year. New Year is celebrated all over the world but, in Scotland, Hogmanay really is different. All the major towns and cities will have their own Hogmanay parties, which are a mixture of long-held traditions, modern music and an abundance of quite raucous fun. For many Scots, Hogmanay is a more important party time even than Christmas and its paramount importance can be gauged by the fact that not only do they have January 1st as a holiday to recover, they have the 2nd of the month as well!

Later in January, on the 25th, the 1759 birth of the national bard, Robert Burns, is commemorated with Burns’ Night suppers across the country – with the famous address to the haggis a feature of the evening. Also in January, on the final Tuesday of the month, a visit to Lerwick in the Shetland Islands will enable you to see the famous Up-Helly-aa, a fiery Viking festival which culminates in the ritual burning of a full-sized Viking Galley.

St Andrew’s Day, on the 30th November, hasn’t traditionally had the same impact on the Scots as, for example, St Patrick’s Day has enjoyed in Ireland but, as it has been a Bank Holiday since 2008, this is beginning to change a little and develop into a popular festival day.

During the spring and summer months, a highlight in many parts of the country are the traditional Highland Gatherings, which incorporate some stunning athletic events – most notably awesome feats of strength – and music and dance. There are many such Highland Games, with the most notable being the event held annually at the beginning of September at Braemar, a gathering that goes back as far as the 11th century.

It is probably true to claim that, for many people, mention of festivals in Scotland will inevitably conjure up images of the capital city, Edinburgh – a place which has become synonymous with festivals of one kind or another. As well as the long established Edinburgh Military Tattoo, and the month long celebration of the Edinburgh Festival and Fringe festival during August, the city also hosts regular film, television, jazz and blues, science and even harp festivals`, amongst others. About a quarter of a million people attend the Tattoo alone each year and, with the other festivals also bringing in vast numbers of people, Edinburgh has become one of Europe’s most popular cities with festival goers.

Scotland has its share of large music festivals as well – notably T in the Park in Kinross in July and the Wickerman festival in East Kirkcarswell, Dumfries and Galloway. The four day Hebridean Celtic Festival, the largest of its kind in the north of the country, is an ideal excuse to visit this dramatic part of the world during the summer.

Scotland is a country full of remarkable contrasts and the wonderful variety of festivals in Scotland – large and small, ancient and modern – illustrates that perfectly.